It's A Twin Thing

The Sunday Age

Sunday October 10, 2004

Paul Edwards

A weekend at Albury and Wodonga means more than just the Murray. By Paul Edwards.

WHY GO NOW?

Any time is a good time to visit this big (100,000 pop) twin city on the Murray, but all things being equal some people might like to avoid the extreme heat that can hit in mid-summer. So we recommend you start shopping around for budget accommodation now - perhaps looking to coincide with the Mungabareena Ngan Girra Festival weekend on November 27. It's a living cultural show exploring traditional and contemporary indigenous cultures, stemming back to the days when tribes met here before heading for the hills to feast on Bogong moths.

WHAT'S THERE?

More than you can cram into a single weekend. You can use the twinned city as a base to explore the old towns nearby - historic places such as Chiltern, Rutherglen, Yackandandah and Beechworth - or stay close to the centre of things and just enjoy what Albury and Wodonga have to offer. That includes the recently restored Albury railway station, opened in 1882 and still one of our most imposing and significant country stations.

ARE WE THERE YET?

Driving to Albury used to be a major production, but now almost all towns are bypassed by the Hume Freeway and the 300 kilometres can be done in little more than three hours. But don't try to beat that - you'll be nicked.

ACTIVITIES AND ATTRACTIONS

Cruise the Murray by canoe or on the paddle steamer Cumberoona and the M.V. Firefly. Explore local museums and discover the region's pioneering past, multicultural history and indigenous cultures. Visit the art gallery, home to an impressive permanent collection of Drysdales. Fish for trout, redfin and Murray cod and catch yabbies at one of the many Fish and Fun parks or yabbie farms, or fly-fish in the Kiewa and Mitta Mitta rivers. Improve your handicap on championship golf courses with glorious alpine views. Try one of the largest tennis complexes in the southern hemisphere - the Wodonga Tennis Centre. Head off for an outdoor adventure - choose from white water rafting, rock climbing, bushwalking or mountain biking. The Flying Fruit Fly Circus school is in Wodonga, the training centre is in Albury, but watch out: the Fruities are everywhere. The circus first put young tightrope walker Emma George in the spotlight. Emma then went on to make women's pole vaulting a major international sport. In Hovell Tree Park, see the historic tree marked by the explorer Captain William Hovel who, along with his companion Hamilton Hume, was the first European to see the Murray. Hamilton Hume also marked a neighbouring tree, which was destroyed by fire in the 1840s. Lake Hume, one of Australia's most important reservoirs, has a capacity six times the size of Sydney Harbour and is set in mountainous country. The dam features a concrete spillway, an earthen embankment 1.6 kilometres long and a shoreline - when full of water - of 365 kilometres.

I'M HUNGRY

The region has a growing reputation for hospitality and produce. Long the centre of a highly regarded wine industry, it also has many outlets for gourmet foods. Its strategic location on the main Melbourne-Sydney and Melbourne-Canberra routes ensures that travellers have plenty of choice. A few suggestions: Coffee Mamma (02) 6041 2600. Smell the freshly roasted and brewed coffee at the top end of town. Green Zebra Deli (02) 6023 1100 - Paul and his team invite you to taste their great pasta offerings all made on site. Hume Murray Farmers' Markets (02) 6058 2996 every second Saturday morning, Gateway Island between Albury and Wodonga. Buy food and wine direct from the growers. Zilch Food Store (02) 6056 2400 - cute cafe and produce store specialising in brunch, lunch and food for your fridge. Cafe Borella's (02 6041 4011). Next to an award-winning and fascinating nursery. Great coffee and friendly staff. All Saints Estate Terrace Restaurant, Wahgunyah, (02 6035 2222) Part of the All Saints Estate Winery, prides itself on providing fresh, seasonal produce year round.

TIME FOR BED

This district has more beds than Capt'n Snooze. A few suggestions: Gaddleen Grove, McGaffins Road, Wodonga gaddleen@albury.net.au. Four-star, rustic red gum slab cottages including a queen-size bed in a separated area from your roomy lounge. Gunaonedai Farmstay, Cookinburra Rd, Indigo Valley gunaonedai@bigpond.com - working beef, sheep and goat production farm. Elizabeth's Manor, Lavington, bookings@elizabethsmanor.com.au. Tudor/Elizabethan style, maximum of eight guests. Baranduda Homestead B&B, Baranduda, bb@barandudahomestead.com.au. Historic homestead where the beautiful Yackandandah Creek and Kiewa River valleys meet. Country Comfort, Dean Street, Albury. (02) 6021 5366. Right in the heart of the action. Boathaven Holiday Park boathaven@iprimus.com.au - Units on the shores of Lake Hume. Seat Arms Motor Inn, Albury (02) 6021 5999. Cosy motel in the city centre. Lake Hume Resort, Riverina Hwy, (02) 6026 4444 - stacks for the kids to do.

© 2004 The Sunday Age

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